Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Inkblot Rayon Sutton Top and Why to Skip Staystitching

After I finished the Dove blouse, I started working on another rayon v-neck top with a center front seam... Way to branch out, right?! A while back, I was looking at an email from Indiesew and they had this really interesting rayon for sale. I popped onto their website and there were only 2 yards of it left, so I grabbed them. That's so not my usual shopping style, I usually browse and browse and change my mind 100 times before buying something, but I really liked this and didn't want to lose out on it. If you were also looking at it and missed out, sorry!

Ignore the weird look on my face, I don't quite get the auto-timer on my camera yet!
It was described as a loose-weave, semi-sheer rayon challis, and in person it almost makes me think of a thicker gauze. It's very soft and airy, and it was great to wear in the 106 F temperatures we had down at Disneyland last week! I knew I wanted to make a loose shirt from this, without set-in sleeves, and something that needed 2 yards or less, of course. I found the Sutton Blouse pattern by True Bias (on Indiesew again), and it was exactly what I was hoping for.

: 100% rayon loose-weave challis

Pattern Changes: Used interfacing instead of stay-stitching, otherwise none

New &/or Improved Techniques: After struggling with staystitching on the Dove top, I needed to find another technique to avoid getting a stretched out neckline on this Sutton top. On the loose, drapey rayon, my staystitches were basically gathering and/or distorting the neckline themselves no matter how much I messed with the tension. I did some research and found a few people saying that staystitching isn't the best technique in most cases to combat the issue of fabric stretching on the bias before you get it sewn into place. Instead, use stay tape or interfacing. Staystitching is recommended ALL the time for home sewists, but I think I'm going to rebel and avoid it as often as possible. I used strips of knit fusible interfacing and it worked SO MUCH BETTER.

What I Like: The ease of construction, the shape of the top, the French seams - as directed in the instructions so no need to figure out seam allowances, construction order, and/or when I need to do another finishing method! It would be great for pattern mixing or color blocking.

What I'd Change: Nothing. This is a top I would love to make again.

Please note the un-stretched out neckline above ^^^ It's probably my favorite feature!